Visit Austria with The Wanderers

By Alka Deshpande

PROLOGUE

The US visas for our co-travellers were not happening which meant that we had a whole week of vacation before proceeding to New York and Columbia University to attend our son’s graduation. With barely 10 days left, getting a visa from the country of our choice (Spain/Portugal/Greece) in time was difficult, if not downright impossible. Our travel consultant, Farah from Wanderers suggested Germany (of course, the Germans would be the most efficient!!) as that was the only consulate that would give us a visa in a week. So we planned to visit Munich (our port of entry), Vienna, Salzburg and Budapest.

AUSTRIAAAAH!!!

Europe is one of our favourite traveling destinations for all the variety it offers…scenic surroundings, history, architecture, art, cuisine and good weather….if you are lucky!!

We landed at Munich and were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves upgraded to a suite at the Le Meredien – what a nice start to our holiday! We wandered around the city on a Hop-on Hop-off tour that allowed us to spend as much time as we liked at any of the spots or skip ones that did not interest us. The problem, however, is that sometimes by the time the guide finishes his explanation in three languages the object of his verbosity is left far behind!!! One of the must see places in Munich is undoubtedly the BMW Museum. This ‘Mecca’ for automobile fans, it impressed and intrigued even a casual visitor like me. The sprawling Scloss Nymphenburg spread luxuriantly amidst acres of well laid gardens is beautiful too. Munich seemed a friendly city and it is a relief that English is more widely understood now than it was during our first trip to Europe in the 1990’s.

Kumar outside the BMW Museum, Munich

One of he highlights of our trip was the train journeys between destinations. Farah did not have to work too hard at encouraging us to splurge and travel first class. It may have cost us an arm and a leg, but it was worth every penny. The trains are clean, fast, and efficient and our seats were booked and marked out with our names. We were met promptly at all the stations by distinguished looking and extremely courteous chauffeurs and many of them were quite knowledgeable about the city and its history. To our astonishment we also encountered a couple of them who had traveled to India!!

Austria is beautiful…probably as good as Switzerland. We spent 2 days at Vienna which is a huge bustling city full of the most beautiful old buildings. On our first evening at Vienna we visited the Kursalon theatre for a musical performance of Strauss melodies. It was very entertaining and the female lead vocalist irrevocably reminded one of the famous Bianca Castafiore (of the Tintin comics fame) even though this lady was pencil slim and very pretty!!

An evening city tour took us up a TV tower from where we could get a beautiful view of Vienna and the Danube by the light of the setting sun. The highlight of the tour was a visit to a little tavern with live musicians and a warm and cozy ambience. We spent a lovely evening chatting with tourists from around the world, sipping wine and enjoying the lively melodies – waltzes, folk music, and even the theme from ‘Titanic’!

Outside Mayerling Hunting Lodge, Vienna Woods

A day trip took us through the beautiful countryside to the Mayerling hunting Lodge with its haunting history of the tragic romance of Crown Prince Rudolf and his mistress Baroness Vetsera. The lodge has now been converted into a church and nunnery and incredulously the bedchamber where the lovers were found dead is now the chapel!!!

Kumar and I on the Danube River Cruise, Budapest

Following the Danube further south brought us to Budapest (Hungary), another old and historic city with a huge rambling castle and grounds sitting atop a hill. Our guide, Catherine took us on a 4 hour walking tour around the city and yes, up the hill to the castle as well. Because their economy is in a shambles, the city seems a bit run down but it is very beautiful nevertheless. The city has a lot of history of invasion and influences of different cultures as, pretty much like Rajasthan in India, it bore the brunt of invasions into Europe. One of the advantages of the walking tour is that one gets to see curious and interesting little known places, charming inns and buildings which would otherwise be lost in a group tour. It was also lovely talking to Catherine as she was really knowledgeable and was quite easily the best guide we had. That evening we went for a performance of Hungarian Folk dances which was exhilarating. The dances were energetic and intricate, the music foot-tapping and the costumes gorgeous.

The Danube at Budapest is broad and majestic and divides the city into its two original quarters, Buda and Pest. The evening river cruise on the Danube beckoned… and watching the lights come on and light up the elegant and historic buildings and bridges on either side of the river was a sight worth seeing. Hungary is also famous for the delicate porcelain and dainty lacework …but it is prohibitively expensive!

A view of St.Wolfgangsee from the yacht

And finally we reached Salzburg is probably one of the quaintest and most charming places we have seen. Right from our heritage hotel, the Aldtstat Radisson Blu to the Salzach river, its just picture perfect.

The hotel is housed in a 600 year old building and has been renovated most tastefully. The coffee shop, called Picnic, had delicious food and we found ourselves eating there almost every day. There are many well organized tours to see every part of Salzburg including the hugely popular ‘Sound of Music’ tour (and, NO, we did not take that tour. Its like one of our chauffers said, “The movie was made 40 years ago and people still want to run around like Maria Von Trapp!!”). One highly recommended trip is the one to the Salt mines and another to Eagles nest and the Nazi bunkers. The latter is a chilling experience. Also, not to be missed is the Lakes and Mountains trip that stops at the tiny village of St.Wolfgangsee. Yes, its all very touristy and recreates the ambience of tiny picturesque village with hazaar quaint shops selling zillions of overpriced souvenirs, but its fun as long as you don’t think this is the real Austria. What is worth seeing at St.Wolfgangsee, however, is the winged Gothic altar by Michael Pacher (one of only 2 that he made). Pacher’s masterpiece is considered one of the leading and most remarkable carved and painted altar shrines in all of European art. Do not forget to pick up your supply of ‘Mozart Balls’ before you leave Salzburg, they are available everywhere!

EPILOGUE

So what did I enjoy most about the trip to Austria? Undoubtedly the lavish breakfasts that were spread out each morning no matter where we stayed. Nothing like starting a day with a King sized repast and then walking it all off exploring the fascinating and engrossing cities and countryside.

So here’s a HUGE ‘Thank You’ to Farah and The Wanderers – All the meticulous planning and the excellent arrangements certainly made our holiday a truly memorable one.

Kenya, The Enchanted landscape

By Shobita Louis

The land of smiles…the land of raw sensual beauty…the land where a Wanderer like me turns into a poet. Searching for paradise had me narrow down on the God’s own playground – Africa. I headed out to the enchanted landscape at the time of the Great Migration – (That time of the year, when thousands of wildebeest start migrating from Serengeti in Tanzania to Maasai Mara in Kenya in search of pasture. The magnificent spectacle that is exhilarating is perhaps, one of the greatest events (if not the greatest) in the world. As you watch helpless and weak wildebeests succumb to the strong gripping jaws of the crocodiles and the raging waters of the Mara River, fighting for dear life – sometimes losing and other times winning, you cannot help but pay tribute to their ‘kamikaze’ odyssey.

The graceful giraffe

The confusion unfolds as the sheer mass of wildebeest, and zebra break into a desperate stampede of survival to greener pastures and calving grounds after four long months of trekking).

The Great Migration was a siren’s call to come out and explore the stage and be witness to the dance between the hunter and the prey.

I landed in Nairobi – wet , grey and cold – the cacophony of the metro greeted me. Far from one madding crowd to another. Nairobi city is just another modern city buzzing with activity. Like any other city in the world, the traffic  signals, congested roads, morning rush hour greets the tourist..

The acacia tree: The Lone ranger in the mara

But, when I flew to the mara – a few hours later, it was akin to stepping into a whole new world. A world where – the magnificent beauty of the plateau, the plane ride (I flew in the smallest plane ever), the first glimpse of the Masai Mara and the majestic giraffe in a distance – opened up its vista to me.

My big five sighting: The lion and lioness

My abode: Sitting above a sweeping bend in the Talek River, at the confluence of the Maasai Mara’s 4 game-viewing areas, the lodge that I was staying in enjoyed one of the most spectacular locations in the entire Mara ecosystem.

My abode: a true flavor of the continent

What more could I ask for…other than heading out for my first game drive – which happened immediately after I unpacked my bags.

My first game drive:

It was in Masai Mara and what a drive it was!

Day 1: First sighting: The lonely leopard

On these wide open rolling grasslands, an incredible variety of different animals at one time await you. A cheetah mother sitting on a termite mound with her punky-looking cubs, while beyond, gazelle, antelope and zebra placidly graze. Giraffes peer curiously through the trees, while elephants pass on silent feet and vultures circle above.

I was lucky to see the elusive leopard and a pride of lioness frolicking in the grass. And this was just my first day in the enchanted land!

My itinerary was a 8 day sojourn – and every day was like opening Pandora’s box of delights. It’s amazing just how close you can get to the local wildlife – a baby hippo riding on his mother’s back, hearing the laugh of the hyenas, shadowing the king of the jungle – the lion, the baboons, the graceful flight of the gazelle – the list is endless when it comes to Africa.

The view of the Lake Nakuru


Lake Nakuru

A must head out to destination for every wildlife enthusiast.

A long ,treacherous drive up the hill , cutting down the Rift valley  took me to the  Lake Nakuru National Park. What I knew about Lake Nakuru is that it is a shallow soda lake and an ornithologist’s paradise boasting over 400 recorded bird species, the most famous being the pink flamingo.

The sight that greeted me

A breathtaking – surreal vision of a great number of pink flamingos that flock to the lake that, from a distance, it looks like it is encircled by a thick, pink border.

At the Hells Gate National Park

Famously named for its pair of mammoth, red hued cliffs, I was treated to the raw unpolluted flavor of Africa –  an abundance of plains game and birdlife which wove itself so beautifully to the vast canvas.

Off-the-beaten track:

a. My stay in the Kigio Conservancy at the Kigio Camp – for its  awesome rustic type experience (to be fair – the accommodation is anything but rustic though ) , is one of the most naturally beautiful places I’ve ever had the fortune of walking up in! (And I think I had the best night’s sleep ever).

The camp is run by solar power and is an eco friendly venture – with the hotelier working closely with the community. The staff there were also the warmest of all the locals we met.

Breakfast in the bush

2. Bush Breakfast at Kigio – Breakfast out in the open! A very special experience, good food, wonderful smiling service, fresh air – nature at it’s best.

Bon appetite

3. Visit to Malindi   – a quaint little beach town which has all the ingredients to make a vacation truly fantastic. It’s a destination which screams luxury  – private, pristine beaches, tucked away coves, gorgeous Italian hotels, casinos, beautiful homes, vibrant culture – my last night in Africa after my 5 nights in the jungle – from the jungles to pulsating beautiful civilization – the transition couldn’t have been better.

4. The rustic lodges: Where you truly get the flavor of being part of the rich continent.

Gourmet delights:

The food is balanced to suit the western palette and the Indian taste. The most sought after drink for a tourist is the Dhawa, a mixture of local vodka, blended with local herbs, lime and honey.The country also offers rare delicacies like wild boar meat, ostrich meat, crocodile meat and  wild buffalo.

A must try is  the Nyama Choma – a local delicacy

Recipe:

2 – 3lbs Beef short ribs (or other red meat that can be roasted)
2 cloves of garlic
2 lemons (used to make lemon juice)
Some Kenyan curry (Simba Mbili ) or any curry powder turmeric Coriander
Paprika
Salt
Black pepper
(The measure of spices are to one’s taste)

Method:
Mix the lemon juice, garlic, and spices
Marinate meat in lemon juice mixture for an hour.
Grill meat over charcoal
Serve with Ugali and savor the delicacy.

The mighty lioness roars…across the Mara plains

The appeal:

The unpolluted wildlife, the natural beauty of the Savannah and more forested areas of Nakuru and Mt Kenya, the warmth and hospitality of the locals especially at the lodges, the laid back balmy atmosphere in Mombasa and Malindi, the interesting blend of Swalihi and Arab customs and culture in the coastal areas.

Best time to travel:

July –  September – this is just after the monsoon and the weather is gorgeous – winter sets in the region, cool soft winds kiss you, everywhere you go – the myriad shades of ‘green’ embraces you. It is also the season of the Great Migration. That is reason enough to pack your bags and head out.
The November – Jan period is a tourist season, but with the onslaught of summer, it could get very warm.

The essence of a Wanderer:

Heading out and discovering the offbeat has always been on my agenda.

Being so close to nature; surrounded by wildlife; witnessing the hunter and the hunted – the raw appeal is so special that you only realize it when you’re actually out in there in the wide open savannah of the Mara – looking at a zebra chomping on the grass or getting a glimpse of a pride of lions – just sitting around enjoying the sun, it’s tawny eyes trained on your lens  – it really is awe inspiring.

The African wilderness is an experience that no one should ever miss!

And staying in offbeat locales and discovering the true Africa – in its camps, the warm hospitality of the people, the smiles – all of it  comes together to make it a perfect Wanderers’ sojourn.

Check out our Kenya package.